Everything Old is New Again - Trier, Germany and Luxembourg

From the Alsace region that seems unchanged by the passing of the centuries, we traveled to two cities that have harmoniously combined historical and modern architecture.

Trier is arguably the oldest city in Germany.  It is a place where construction of a new parking lot recently revealed ancient Roman ruins slumbering just meters below the surface.  The town’s nearly 2,000 year old Black Gate punctuates a road which delivered us to a small carnival of strobe-lights, amusing rides, and boardwalk games where we drank our first glühwein of the season while watching families enjoy the festive setting.

Luxembourg’s geographic location at the crossroads of European powerhouses has allowed it to realize impressive financial success.  As it has grown, the city has managed to incorporate immense forts from the 17th, 18th, and 19th century into its modern architecture.  The Musée d'Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean, locally known as MUDAM, offers a wonderful example of integrating past and present designs (pictured), and we were thrilled to stumble upon a special opening night exhibit that reminded us of Denver’s wonderful Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA).

These two amazing cities demonstrate unstoppable momentum; their skylines dotted with one construction crane after another.  It’s comforting to see that history can be maintained, and perhaps even enhanced, as city planners balance efforts to expand and evolve while maintaining watchful eyes on the precious need for preservation.

The Belgian Trifecta!

Decisions. Decisions. Which One to Choose?

The challenge:  Complete the gastronomical marathon which we dubbed “The Belgian Trifecta”:  Consumption of world-class beer, chocolates, and waffles.

The timeframe:  A brief, but enjoyable ~18 hours.

The disclaimer:  The Belgian Trifecta should not be attempted by pregnant women or people operating heavy equipment.  Side effects of The Belgian Trifecta include sticky fingers and a desire to nap.

The approach:  We took a programmatic approach to tackling The Belgian Trifecta.  First, we built up our courage by consuming a few local beers including an Affligem blond pale ale and Maredsous brown.  Fortified with our libations, we stepped into the cool night air and located a small waffle stand near our good friend Manneken Pis; we sought balance with our topping selections of caramel and strawberry.  Overtaken by a strong desire to nap (see disclaimer), we retired to our hotel facing shame and defeat.  We had lost the battle, but not the war - The next morning we found new inspiration and secured a hearty breakfast of chocolaty bonbons before heading out of town.

The outcome:  No victory was ever sweeter!

The Alsace Region of France

Our increasingly spontaneous travel style has taken us to places we hadn’t heard of before leaving home.  We decided to continue north for some cooler temperatures as we departed Zurich.  Input from our friend Steven, along with a handy travel website (www.rome2rio.com), identified the Alsace region of France as a destination not to be missed.

The towns of Strasbourg and Colmar are pedestrian paradises with their big parks, rambling rivers, and colorful old buildings.  Mulhouse is home to the Cité de l’Automobile car museum, by far the most impressive transportation-related museum we’ve visited.  It houses an unrivaled collection of ancient Bugatti’s and a variety of European collector car treasures - Matt was in heaven!

In all three of the Alsatian towns we strolled through the historic centers and enjoyed the café culture.  We practiced our French language skills while interacting with patient locals who were willing to work with us as we expanded our vocabulary.  These cities and the people who call them home were a highlight of our travels.

La Dolce Vita! Northeastern Italy

We knew we needed a taste of la dolce vita for ourselves after hearing friends describe their recent trips to Italy.  They raved about the delicious food, rich wine, unforgettable attractions, and romantic ambiance.  We concentrated our sightseeing to northeastern Italy with visits to Trieste, Venice, and Milan, promising to return some day to explore southern Italy’s treasures.

Not long after crossing the Italian border from Slovenia we approached spectacular views of Trieste and our excitement increased.  For us, Trieste is the perfect size.  It displays wonderful character in its small winding streets, lovely squares, waterfront promenade, and impressively diverse houses of worship, each with its own unique architecture.  We enjoyed gelato in the Piazza dell’Unita d’Italia and paid a visit to the Miramare Castle on the Adriatic coast.  We could have lingered longer in this delightful city by the sea, but Venice beckoned.

Venice is one the most surreal places we have visited, possessing a beauty that is difficult to put into words – It is something that truly must be seen to be believed.  We stayed in a 15^th century palace (which Jenn believes to be haunted), watched the sunset over the water, and explored the city on foot getting lost in the little nooks and crannies that don’t find their way onto a typical visitor’s itinerary.  We were traveling outside of the town’s traditional tourist zones and loving it.

Our final night in Italy was fashion-focused Milan.  With only one evening to spend in this influential metropolitan area, we hopped on the subway and headed to the historic center to see the Milan Cathedral (Duomo) and its impressive piazza.  We ventured away from the crowded square in search of quieter quarters and ended our evening with an indulgent multi-course meal.

As we boarded the train towards Switzerland and bid “arrivederci” to Italy we acknowledged that we had merely sampled what this impressive country has to offer.  Our return is certain, and it’s great to have something like that to look forward to.

There Must be Something in the Water - Eger & Balatonlelle, Hungary

Jenn's In There Somewhere!

Our daytrips in Hungary led us to a small city rich with history and a summer tourist destination that had passed into sleepy offseason serenity.

Eger’s great square juxtaposed ancient buildings against a modern water installation that provided fountain and steam features. The steam created the October-appropriate illusion of phantoms passing through a foggy graveyard as people sought its cooling mist.

After a short walk, we arrived at another water installation, one which provides a glimpse into the areas grand history. Eger’s Turkish Baths have been in use for 400 years and offer the therapeutic healing and relaxation we longed for. We soaked in warm sulfur water, sat in herbal steam rooms, swam in modern pools, and explored age-old grottos. We let the stress of foreign language mistakes and tight travel schedules melt away and left with feelings of peace and calm.

We were surprised to witness just how quiet the Lake Balaton area is during offseason; it seemed that we were the only visitors to the small waterfront community of Balatonlelle. We used this to our advantage by slowly strolling, hand-in-hand, along lakeside paths, watching locals fish for the catch of the day, and chatting casually over fulfilling meals in one the few open restaurants.

We’ve learned to adjust our pace to match the tempo of our surroundings. Like Hungary’s many lakes and rivers, we have found satisfaction in going with the flow to see where it takes us.