Finding Gems - Budapest, Hungary

Budapest was unanimously recommended to us as a cultural melting pot and foodie-friendly corner of the world. It's a large city, but can be easily be navigated via the quality public transportation system. Looking for a place to plant some roots, we booked a 10-day stay to determine what all of the hubbub was about. We hit the usual sites (Fisherman's Bastion, Hungarian National Parliament, St. Stephen's Cathedral, etc.), but also went off the beaten path with a caving expedition in a nearby national park, toured a WWII hospital, and a visited to the little known pinball museum/arcade.

The Caving Under Budapest tour was unlike anything we've ever done. The cave's air was thick with dust as we crawled and climbed our way through spots we wouldn't have thought possible. We pushed our boundaries during this incredible excursion, and our knees and elbows paid the price the next day when they revealed a few impressive bruises accompanied by aches and pains from muscles we don't usually exercise. We checked caving off of our bucket list and anticipate that our next underground experience will occur in a slightly more sedate venue, a wine cellar.

We also toured the surreal underground Hospital in the Rock, a WWII medical facility and bomb shelter. Built to accommodate 60 people, it ended up housing over 600 individuals during the wartime invasion of Budapest. Both of us detected a scent similar to formaldehyde in the musty air in this inherently eerie place. While educational, we found ourselves ready to reach the one-hour tour's end so we could get some fresh air and seek out a merrier venue.

Where does one turn when seeking the merriest venue of all? For us, it was the Flippergaléria Pinball Museum. During our casual exploration of the city we stumbled upon this side-street gem, home to over 130 pinball machines dating back to the 1930s. All of them are functional and unlimited play is included in the modest admission price. We had a blast in this pinball time warp and recommend it as the perfect distraction from the more recognized sights.

We were delighted to find Budapest as the incredible city everyone described with its historical architecture, restaurants and Sörözős offering fresh food and incredible local wine, and especially those little gems that haven't quite been discovered by the sightseeing masses.

Bringing Back Cocktail Hour - Budapest, Hungary

The Saturday afternoon sun warmed us as we stepped onto the city streets to begin a long walk from our Pest apartment, across the Danube River, and into Buda.  Along the way we slowed our pace and secured a park bench on Margitsziget (Margaret Island) to take in the sky’s softer hues at dusk.  This Saturday was special, being Matt’s 40^th birthday, a milestone we had looked forward to celebrating abroad.

With Jeff’s considerate “Bring Back Cocktail Hour” contribution in hand, we sought out a fulfilling dinner and drinks.  As we made our way through the quieter corners of Budapest, we encountered Sörmanufaktúra Söröző, a tiny Hungarian pub.  It was no bigger than a large coat closet, but housed a quaint courtyard with outdoor seating.  We secured two local craft beers, which were happily consumed over lively conversation.  Hunger set in, so we made our way to Mandragóra Kávéház.

The restaurant's cozy atmosphere and attentive staff were comforting, but the best part of the evening was the food.  We started with an appetizer of well presented cattle liver pâté served along-side homemade brioche and greens.  The pâté was covered by a thin layer of what appeared to be cream cheese which added a smooth texture and subtle richness to an already velvety and flavorful dish.

We sought balance in our entrées by choosing one that was hearty and another that was delicate.  The exceptionally tender wild boar stew was offered with noodles which had the consistency of gnocchi.  On the lighter side, the panko crusted tilapia was flaky, and well paired with its creamy remoulade sauce and butter potatoes.

We raised our glasses of Pannonhalmi Salve, a cheerful local wine, and toasted Jeff’s generous sponsorship of a perfect birthday celebration in Budapest.