The John Muir Way - Helensburgh to Balloch

Our two relaxing days in Helensburgh passed quickly and we were soon bidding the quiet west coast town goodbye. With backpacks hoisted, we set off into the cloud-covered hills on the first leg of our walk across Scotland.

The gradual ascent, an elevation increase of one thousand feet, offered lovely, slightly hazy views of the extensive Loch Lomond. The trail passes through a diverse landscape of spongy wet bogs and lush green woodlands decorated with diverse windflowers and centuries-old stone walls. The mist and light rain contributed to what we perceived as an authentic Scottish experience, but it didn't dampen our spirits or lessen our strides.

As we approached the ninth mile we descended into the welcoming quaintness of Balloch, a tidy loch-side village where we will spend two nights getting to know the area and its people, before continuing our cross-country trek.

Up, Up and Away - Boulder, Colorado

Hot Air Balloon Ride in Boulder, COWe recently received an offer we couldn’t pass up when Gary, a friend of Matt's, called to ask if we'd like to “catch a lift” in his hot air balloon. 

Early in the morning with coffees in-hand, we headed towards a vast field near Boulder, Colorado where several people were staging their balloons.  We found Gary and his lovely wife Rachel, said our good mornings, and quickly got to work preparing for launch.

In about 30 minutes, we were ready for takeoff.  We climbed into the basket with Gary and up, up and away we went over fields, homes, and ponds.  The weather was clear and lovely, providing an incredible, panoramic bird's eye view. 

While floating in for our landing, we were fortunate to spot two playful coyotes.  Rachel, who was in hot pursuit with the SUV and trailer, arrived a few moments after we touched down.  We packed up the balloon, drove back to the original launch site and opened a celebratory bottle of New Zealand champagne. 

Thanks to Gary and Rachel, we were able to check off one more item from our bucket list.

SUMO!

Sumo wrestling is Japan's national sport, dating back 1,500 years.  Sumo is also more than just a sport, it's an art form presenting pageantry, showmanship, and to put the cherry on the top, it's beyond entertaining to watch.

Before we booked our flight to Japan we had already purchased tickets to see "opening day" of the Grand Sumo Ryogoku Kokugkikan tournament, which is supposed to be one of the busiest tournament days of the two week event.  When we arrived, we scoped out our surroundings and then decided to sit down with our fellow spectators for a bowl of chanko stew made of vegetables, meat and potatoes.  Sumo wrestlers eat this meal to "beef up" and we thoroughly enjoyed these fortifying bowls of hearty deliciousness.

Once we had our fill, we strolled to our seats to catch the Jyuryo bouts.  These wresters are considered sumo professionals, but have not obtained the status of Makuuchi or the top division yet.  Sumo wrestlers come in various shapes and sizes, so the matches are entertaining and we tried to guess who would win each bout.  Jenn based her selection on the flexibility demonstrated by each wrestler during their pre-match stretching.  Often the smaller wrestlers won, literally demonstrating the concept that the bigger they are, the harder they fall. 

After the Jyuryo bouts, there is a brief break where the Makuuchi Entrance occurs during which the top division sumo wrestlers enter the ring.  These matches offer increased ritual and showmanship including the salt purification tradition in which salt is thrown in the ring to remove all bad energy.  There is also sizing the opponent up, slapping of the belly, arms, face, and foot stomping. 

As a foreign spectator, it is not necessary to understand what was being said, simply sit back with a local brew, watch the bouts, and cheer with the crowd while enjoy the amazing sport of sumo.

Remembering The Forgotten War

Before leaving South Korea, we visited Seoul's War Memorial.  The building and grounds house a broad collection of military equipment, statues, and memorabilia which span several wars and many centuries, but our attention was drawn primarily to the Korean War exhibits.

The Korean War is referred to as "The Forgotten War" and with good reason.  Our exposure to this conflict was minimal prior to visiting the memorial, having likely learned more from watching MASHthan from high school and college history courses.  It is hard to believe that a protracted battle of three years with 35,000+ U.S. casualties, thousands of MIAs, and many hundreds of thousands of others killed in action can be footnoted as a blip on the historical radar between WWII and the Vietnam War.  We felt fortunate to have the opportunity to expand our knowledge of this specific conflict while in Seoul, a city with more than its share of battle scars.

The memorial was well presented and impressive.  It shared its message through:

1. Outdoor displays of military hardware (tanks, trucks, planes, missiles, etc.)
2. Impressive commemorative statues paying tribute the the many sacrifices of war
3. Well presented indoor displays exhibiting physical memorabilia and interpretive memorials, both informative and moving

The displays were English language friendly as were the numerous video installations.  One portion of the museum presented a large collection of personal items that had been donated by Korean War veterans and their families.  Uniforms, medals, diaries, letters, sketches, and coins, the miscellanea that one might stash away for a lifetime after living through something so traumatic.  These artifacts provide direct links to the people who wore or carried them into battle.

We left the memorial appreciative of what we had seen and learned, greatly pleased to find that admission is free of charge, making it readily available to the people of Seoul and the world beyond.

For Whom the Bell Tolls, Suwon, South Korea

The Bell Tolls for Several ReasonsWhile exploring South Korea, we visited Suwon and its impressive World Heritage Hwaseong Fortress.  We walked ~six kilometers along the 400+ year old structure that encloses much of the city, stopping to take in sweeping views as we ambled.  Shortly after our walk’s start, we encountered an enormous Filial Piety bell, a long-held tradition for expressing best wishes.  After making a small contribution we respectfully approached the imposing bell, drew back the suspended wooden ringer and released three clear tolls.

1^st Toll:  To show gratitude and respect for our parents
2^nd Toll:  To wish for our family’s health and harmony
3^rd Toll:  To wish for the realization of our dreams

We dedicated a few moments to ruminate upon the meaning of each toll before continuing our stroll.