Bringing Back Cocktail Hour - Dunbar, Scotland

A few months have past since our last Bring Back Cocktail Hour post. We dined at several great restaurants in Scotland, but wanted to apply Mark and Sue's generously sponsored "Dinner and Drinks for Two" to something special - our celebration meal upon completion of the John Muir Way. And what a hearty and fulfilling celebration it turned out to be!

With cold coastal winds and a tendency for precipitation, Scottish cuisine is often the stuff that warms and fortifies with large portions and rich sauces. Our entrees, served up at The Rocks restaurant, were no exception.

- Duck confit tart with red onion marmalade and creme fraiche

- Rack of lamb with red current jus

- Osso bucco with chive mashed potatoes

And to top it off, a bit of the bubbly - No proper celebration would be complete without it!

With glasses raised, we toasted our accomplishment and extended a satisfied and grateful "Cheers" to Mark and Sue in appreciation of their thoughtfulness.

The John Muir Way - Prestonpans to Dunbar

The final two segments of the John Muir Way cover 31 miles with stops in some of the most picturesque towns and villages: Gullane, North Berwick, and East Linton. We counted down the final few miles, crossed a sprawling beach in Belhaven, and strolled contentedly into Dunbar, John Muir's birthplace.

These final few sections of trail offered broad vistas of fields, beaches, and rocky seaside cliffs. At the coast we were greeted by a variety of bird species searching the surf for mussels, snails and fish. Tuxedoed oystercatchers and well camouflaged curlews plied the sand for treats while cormorants postured with wings outstretched, drying after a deep dive.

At Dunbar, we enjoyed a celebratory dinner, toured the informative John Muir Birthplace Museum, explored the parks, and strolled a unique red sand beach. On our third and final day in town we ventured out on one final hike, a six mile roundtrip jaunt to the nearby Barns Ness Lighthouse (pictured).

Our month long stay in Scotland offered surprisingly calm weather, diverse food, beautiful scenery, and some of the friendliest people around. This has truly been a walk to remember.

The John Muir Way - South Queensferry to Prestonpans

The seventh and eighth sections of the John Muir Way cover 25 miles which we enjoyed with stops in a diverse selection of Edinburgh's many neighborhoods: Cramond, Murrayfield, Newington, and Joppa. We paused briefly in Prestonpans for energizing food and drink before pushing on to Longniddry where a fantastic little garden cottage awaited our arrival. Having sampled the many castles, palaces, and estate homes that dot the landscape, we redirected our attention to Scotland's extensive natural beauty.

The hiking path was peppered with abundant acorns, spiky beechnuts, and young green pinecones; its perimeter painted with the most splendid colors of summer. Spectacular yellows, purples, and pinks were on display in the heather, rosebay willow-herb, and foxglove. We discovered thorny bramble bushes rich with ripe raspberries and blackberries and we enjoyed sampling their sweet and refreshing flavors. Nature's diverse buffet of nuts, flowers, and berries attracted a variety of birds, bees, and butterflies with chipper squirrels joining the bountiful feast as well.

The John Muir Way continues to impress us with its stunning diversity. During this leg of our journey we have literally taken the time to smell the wild roses, and are better off for the effort.

The John Muir Way - Falkirk to South Queensferry

The fifth and sixth sections of the John Muir Way cover 23 miles which we hiked at a relaxed pace with stops in Linlithgow, Bo'ness, and Hopetoun before reaching the picturesque seaside city of South Queensferry.

With relatively short distances to span each day, we took the opportunity to visit local attractions such as the:

- Lovely Callendar House estate with its fully functional 1825 kitchen.

- Imposing Linlithgow Palace where Mary Queen of Scots was born in 1542.

- Stunning Blackness Castle with its long history as a state prison, artillery fortification, and ammunitions depot.

Exploring the nooks and crannies of these impressive structures was a joy, but we found something special in a somewhat lesser known attraction.

The 100+ year old Hippodrome in Bo'ness is Scotland's oldest purpose-built cinema. After visiting the concession stand, we took our seats to watch Roman Polanski's "Venus in Fur", an unusual and enjoyable movie made even better by the architecturally stunning setting.

As we cross the midpoint of our Scotland hike, we're reminded to slow down, savor the simple experiences, and appreciate the opportunities we're given. And sometimes stepping out for dinner and a movie does just the trick.

The John Muir Way - Balloch to Strathblane

The first stage of the John Muir Way landed us in Balloch, a wonderful village on the shores of the largest inland lake (by surface area) in Great Britain. Balloch offers a wonderful selection of restaurants, historic attractions, parks, and outdoor activities. While there, we:

- Hiked to a castle located in a sprawling park
- Watched Scottish dance students demonstrate their craft
- Enjoyed tasty street food (German bratwursts and soft serve ice cream with flake - a crunchy chocolate stick)
- Relaxed on a restaurant balcony imbibing local brews while taking in the sweeping views

We hated to leave, but the open trail beckoned.

The route from Balloch to Strathblane is 18 miles, so we allowed for a stopover in the little hamlet of Croftamie. To get there we walked eight miles on paved but predominantly peaceful country roads. After a nice meal and much needed rest we tackled the slightly longer and more scenic leg from Croftamie to Strathblane. Along the way we witnessed a variety of wildlife, including pheasant, an adorable hedgehog, and the (weasel-like) pine marten.

Our Strathblane lodging is an inn that has been in business since the year 1601, and it offers plenty of charm and character. We anticipate another good night's sleep before tomorrow when we will continue our enjoyable exploration of the Scottish countryside.